FOOD AND DRINK
Bottle Shop: Drink Pink
Anyone who dismisses rosé for its lack of seriousness is drinking the wrong stuff. Made properly – with balance and finesse – rosé is a seriously delicious wine to be consumed al fresco, in good company, and without pretension. Here are three bottles to do just that.
Henry of Pelham Rosé 2014
Niagara rosé has traditionally leaned towards pink plonk packaged in garishly labeled bottles with candy shop flavours. Hey, it sells. Fortunately there is a trend toward local rosé made with more Gallic restraint. Using a blend of Zweigelt, Gamay and Cabernet Sauvignon, this terrific wine from the Niagara Escarpment delivers crowd-pleasing fruit flavours of apples, red berries and rhubarb, while keeping the balance in check with vibrant acidity and a dry, clean finish. At a relatively low 11.5 percent alcohol, it’s the perfect pour at lunch with salad Niçoise, or as an aperitif to wash down a pre-dinner charcuterie board.
Kir-Yianni Akakies Rosé 2014
Greek wine has become fashionable among hip sommeliers, as it delivers food-friendliness and Old World character at very fetching prices. This roze krasi from the Amyndeon region in northwest Greece is pressed from Xinomavro grapes, which are traditionally used to make reds that bear a striking resemblance to Piedmont’s legendary Nebbiolo-based wines. It’s candy apple hue and fruit punch aromas suggest frivolity, but the first sip reveals just the opposite. Sure, it’s loaded with strawberry and raspberry flavours, but zippy acids give it structure and the peppery finish beguiles. Pair it with more robust cooking such as chicken souvlaki or grilled pork chops.
Château de Berne Terre de Berne Rosé 2014
The majority of Provence’s wine production is dedicated to rosé. In the south of France, it’s a way of life. This delightful blend of Cinsault and Grenache from Côtes de Provence comes in a unique square-shouldered bottle that would look more at home on the olive oil shelf. It glows like a shiny new penny in the glass, and a quick swirl reveals an intoxicating bouquet of raspberry, pink grapefruit and delicate flowers. It’s an arch-Provençal pink: lean, savoury and bone dry with a lip-smacking finish that keeps you coming back for more. Open it with lighter fare such as a simple green salad, or at brunch with quiche or other egg dishes.